科罗纳多CORONADO

奥拉不想听，但是，虽然环保人士赞成目前大峡谷国家公园的公共交通建设，以缓解交通拥堵，但很久以前，有一个建造不同铁路的构想......
Aura doesn’t want to hear about it, but though environmentalists favor the current development of mass transit in Grand Canyon National Park as a means of easing traffic congestion, there was, once upon a time, a dream of a different kind of railroad....

这里我引用了布鲁斯·巴比特编辑的一本选集。他曾经不仅是亚利桑那州的州长，还是内政部长，所以他应该和奥拉是同一立场的。
And here I’m quoting from an anthology that no less than Bruce Babbitt put together. He was not only Governor of Arizona but also Secretary of the Interior, so you know he’s as much on Aura’s team as anybody is likely to get:

布鲁斯·巴比特编，《大峡谷:选集》(弗拉格斯塔夫:北国出版社，1978)，第7-9页:
Bruce Babbitt, ed., Grand Canyon: An Anthology, (Flagstaff: Northland Press, 1978), pp. 7-9:

"在鲍威尔把峡谷区向美国开放以后，这个地方就从勘探活动转向了商业开发。探矿者、农场主、测量员、铁路工程师和牧场主涌向了西南地区。大峡谷也不例外......
"After Powell opened the [canyon country to the U.S.], the focus of activity shifted from exploration to commercial exploitation. Prospectors, homesteaders, surveyors, railway engineers and cattlemen swarmed throughout the southwestern region. Grand Canyon was no exception...

"对西部铁路不可避免的投机早早就开始了。今天，无论以何种标准来衡量，这似乎都是一场极其不可能的、不切实际的冒险。但19世纪是一个镀了金的乐观主义和轻率扩张的时代。任何事情都是可能的。
"The inevitable western railroad speculation got off to an early start. Today it seems, by any measure, a wildly improbable, quixotic adventure. But the nineteenth century was an age of gilded optimism and headlong expansion. Anything was possible.

"......[丹佛梦想家弗兰克·布朗雇用了]一位才华横溢的铁路工程师，罗伯特·布鲁斯特·斯坦顿，...…组建了丹佛铁路公司，...…他们一起开始沿河而下，勘测一条从落基山脉到加利福尼亚的穿过科罗拉多峡谷的“水位”铁路......
"…[Denver dreamer Frank Brown hired] a talented railway engineer, Robert Brewster Stanton, … organized the Denver Railway Company, … and together they started down the river to survey a ‘water level’ railroad through the Colorado’s canyons from the Rocky Mountains to California...

"[布朗和其他一些人在途中不幸丧生了。]但斯坦顿不愿放弃。一年后，他带着改进过的新船和救生衣回到了河边。刚开始有一些意外，但是他还是顺利完成了铁路勘测，没有再发生事故。斯坦顿将余生的大部分时间用于推动科罗拉多河的开发项目，并论证铁路的可行性。但是没有人认同。斯坦顿是一个浮夸的梦想家。在他对第二次河流之旅的描述中，他说在亨斯急流下面有一段平静的河段，在那里他吐露了自己的想法。‘我做了一个白日梦，看到每个小湾都有风景如画的瑞士小屋，还有快乐的山民和他们成群的绵羊和山羊，为我们未来的铁路发展当地商业’......在科罗拉多河的巴斯小道上......斯坦顿计划建一个铁路调车站......
"[Brown and others died in the attempt.] But Stanton would not quit. A year later he returned to the river with new improved boats and life preservers. After an initial mishap, he completed the railway survey without further incident. Stanton spent much of his remaining life promoting Colorado River development projects and arguing the feasibility of his railroad. There were no takers. Stanton was a grandiose dreamer. In his account of the second river trip, he reveals his thoughts during a quiet stretch below Hance Rapid. ‘I dreamed one of my daydreams and saw each cove with its picturesque Swiss chalet, and its happy mountain people with their herds of sheep and mountain goats, developing local business for our future railroad’…. At the banks of the Colorado River on Bass Trail … Stanton planned a railroad switchyard...

奥拉AURA

天哪！
Jesus !

科罗纳多CORONADO

勘探者们紧接着就来了......在所有早期的勘探者和推动者中，也许最大胆和最厉害的就是拉尔夫·亨利·卡梅隆。他曾多次提出开发矿区、发电大坝、沿矿区边缘修建一条风景优美的铁路和一家旅游酒店的计划。为了控制峡谷的商业风险，卡梅隆厚颜无耻地支持了战略性位置的欺诈性采矿申请，以控制路径和水源，并阻挠圣达菲铁路的发展计划。1920年，他当选了美国参议员，在他唯一一届任期的大部分时间里，他都在宣传他的主张，试图阻止他的竞争对手，国家公园管理局和圣达菲，但都没有成功。
The prospectors were not far behind . . . Perhaps the most audacious and flamboyant of all the early prospectors and promoters was Ralph Henry Cameron. At one time or another he promoted schemes for the development of mining claims, dams for electric power, a scenic railway along the rim and a tourist hotel. Fighting to control the canyon as a commercial venture, Cameron brazenly staked fraudulent mining claims at strategic locations to control trail access and springs and to frustrate the development plans of the Santa Fe Railway. In 1920 he was elected to the United States Senate where he spent most of his one and only term promoting his claims and trying unsuccessfully to do in his rivals, the National Park Service and the Santa Fe.

如果这对你来说还不够的话，这里还有一些东西，正是源自大峡谷自然历史协会出版的一本书，名为《大峡谷地质》。听好了，西内：
And if that’s not enough for your, here’s a little something from a book none other than the Grand Canyon Natural History Association put out called Geology of the Grand Canyon. Listen up, Sine:

杰·布瑞德和伊夫林·斯·罗特编，《大峡谷地质》(弗拉格斯塔夫:北亚利桑那博物馆和大峡谷自然历史协会，1974)，由大峡谷保护协会提供：第170、172、178页:
J. Breed and Evelyn C. Roat, eds. Geology of the Grand Canyon, (Flagstaff: Museum of Northern Arizona & Grand Canyon Natural History Assn., 1974), courtesy of Grand Canyon Conservancy: pp. 170, 172, 178:

"19世纪60年代末到20世纪中期，勘探者们在大峡谷地区游荡.......大多数位于大峡谷及其周围的勘探区都很小，而且无利可图的，实际上每个支流峡谷都曾被勘探过。铜矿是最受欢迎的矿物，此外还有少量的铀和更少量的银和金......
"Prospectors roamed the Grand Canyon region in the late 1860s through the middle 1900s.... Most prospects located in and around the Grand Canyon are small and unprofitable but virtually every tributary canyon has been prospected at one time or another. Copper is the most popular mineral extracted from the mines along with smaller amounts of uranium and to a lesser extent, silver and gold...

"[过去采过矿的一些痕迹仍然清晰可见。约翰·汉斯]......建造了一条通往科罗拉多河的小道，现在叫做老汉斯小道。在红峡谷对面的河流上，他在一个支流峡谷中找到了一个石棉矿，现在这个支流峡谷叫做石棉峡谷......
"[Some evidence of past mining is still visible. John Hance] .… built a trail, now called the Old Hance Trail, to the Colorado River. Across the river from Red Canyon, he located an asbestos mine in a tributary canyon now called Asbestos Canyon...

奥拉AURA

石棉。也是铀吗?
Asbestos. And uranium, too ?

科罗纳多CORONADO

我还在看。
I’m still reading -

汉斯1894年建造了红峡谷步道(现在叫做新汉斯步道)……许多采矿设备至今还在那里。
Hance built the Red Canyon Trail (now called the New Hance Trail) in 1894.… Much of the mining equipment [is] still there.

奥拉AURA

我从来没见过。
I’ve never seen that.

科罗纳多CORONADO

在大峡谷西部，从李斯渡口到科罗拉多河的265.9英里处，有巨大的钢塔，位于峡谷北侧，高出科罗拉多河约800英尺。这些塔是电缆运输系统的遗迹，当时用来运输蝙蝠粪便到南侧......用于市场交易......蝙蝠粪便!(笑)矿业……这种情况一直持续到20世纪50年代中期，后来因为引进了较便宜的硝酸盐化肥，这个矿山就变得没有多少经济价值了。
In western Grand Canyon, mile 265.9 on the Colorado River from Lees Ferry, are large steel towers on the north side of the canyon about 800 feet above the Colorado River. These towers are the remains of a cable transporting system used to transport bat guano to the South Rim ... [for] market.... (Bat guano! (Laughs) Mining ... continued until the middle 1950's when the introduction of less expensive nitrate fertilizers made the mine an uneconomical venture.

如果它产生了以下结果，那么对石油的追求可能不会止步于大峡谷:
And the pursuit of oil might not have stopped at the Grand Canyon if it had produced results:

1906年，大峡谷附近的第一口油井在亚利桑那州西北部开始钻探。截至1961年，共钻探了18口试验井，但均未出油，所有的井都被列为干井和废弃井。科罗拉多河和横跨亚利桑那州北部高原的支流峡谷的深层侵蚀可能对石油的保存产生了负面影响。离科罗拉多河最近的井都没有超过25英里......
The first oil well drilled near Grand Canyon was in 1906 in northwestern Arizona. Eighteen test wells were drilled up to 1961 but no oil was produced and all holes are classed as dry and abandoned. The deep erosion by the Colorado River and tributary canyons across the northern Arizona plateaus may have had a negative influence on the preservation of oil. No wells were closer to the Colorado River than 25 miles…

那应该令你很高兴吧。
Well, that oughtta’ make you happy.

我知道你对印第安人有好感。但是想从这个峡谷里挖出好东西的人有一大堆，我刚才跟你说的那些人或许只是他们中最近的那一批。这是史密森学会出版的《西南国家公园的冰河时代历史》:
And I know you’ve got a soft spot for the Indians. But it seems those guys I was just telling you about are only the latest in a long line hell bent on extracting from the Canyon what might be of use to them. Here’s something from a Smithsonian publication called the Ice Age History of Southwestern National Parks:

史考特·埃·利亚斯，“西南国家公园的冰川史” (华盛顿:史密森学会出版社，1997)，第120、122、123页:
Scott A. Elias, Ice Age History of Southwestern National Parks, (Washington: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1997), pp. 120, 122, 123:

从克洛维斯和福尔松人的临时狩猎营地开始，人们已经在峡谷内外生活了几千年了......在古代，人们就开始频繁地占据峡谷中的这些地方。在美国西南部发现的最迷人的古器物之一，是一系列由折断，弯曲的柳枝做成的动物形状......[这些]小雕像......用放射性碳测定年代......是公元前4000年到3000年之间的......
… People have been living in and around the canyon for several thousand years, beginning with the temporary hunting camps of Clovis and Folsom peoples.... During the Archaic Period, people began occupying sites in the canyon on a more frequent basis. One of the most fascinating sets of Archaic artifacts that has been discovered in the Southwest is a series of figures made of split willow twigs, twisted and bent into the shapes of animals.… [These] figurines … have been radiocarbon dated … [to] between 4000 and 3000 yr B.P....

奥拉AURA

嗯，这很不错。
Well that’s nice –

科罗纳多CORONADO

对。
Right.

"大峡谷是多种晚期史前文化的十字路口，尤其是阿纳萨齐文明。其它文化在大峡谷中只有少量的体现，但阿纳萨齐村遗址是公园中最广泛的，在南北边缘以及沿峡谷壁的河流附近都有发现......
"The Grand Canyon was a crossroads for a variety of late prehistoric cultures, especially the Anasazi. Other cultures were only marginally represented in the Grand Canyon, but Anasazi village ruins are the most extensive in the park, having been found on both the north and south rims, as well as down near the river along canyon walls...

在大峡谷地区长时间农业定居的第一个证据来自于南侧，那里的农民大约在公元700年就开始劳作了......大约公元1050年，普韦布洛人开始生活在峡谷中，在峡谷中几乎每一块可耕种的土地上种植庄稼。然而，由于缺乏水分，这场农业试验注定是失败的。
The first evidence of permanent farming settlements in the Grand Canyon region comes from the south rim, where farmers began working about 700 A.D.... Pueblo people began living in the canyon about 1050 A.D., growing crops on nearly every patch of arable land in the canyon. However, this agricultural experiment was doomed to fail because of a lack of moisture.

我在大峡谷发现了一本叫做《人类4000年历史》的书，上面写着:
And I found this thing called 4000 Years of Human History in the Grand Canyon that says:

罗伯特·斯·欧拉，“峡谷居民:大峡谷4000年的人类历史”，《科罗拉多州》，迪·艾曲·沃特金主编(帕洛阿尔托:美国西部出版公司，1969)，第24-26页，在巴比特:
Robert C. Euler, "The Canyon Dwellers: 4000 Years of Human History in the Grand Canyon," in The Grand Colorado, ed. T. H. Watkins (Palo Alto: American West Publishing Co., 1969), pp. 24-26, in Babbitt:

"目前发现少数几个开发中的地方，它们的表面只是一些排列整齐的黑白陶器碎片。
"The few Developmental sites that have been discovered are marked on the surface only by fine-lined black-on-white pottery fragments.

(那会给你一种舒适的感觉。)
(Now that should give you a nice cozy feeling.)

"它们大多位于峡谷的东部，但是据记录，鹿溪附近也有一处，鹿溪位于科罗拉多河下游，距李斯渡头 136英里。很可能，这一批批普韦布洛印第安人是从他们领土的中心地带向东来到大峡谷的.....绝大多数的大峡谷史前遗址都是些小的、砖石外墙的印第安村落，有相连的储藏室、梅斯卡莱罗坑和临时地下礼堂。这些建筑通常建在开放的、相对平坦的平台上。许多印第安人利用高耸的悬崖，在陡峭的岩屑坡的顶部进行建造，但真正的悬崖民居并不常见。
"These are mostly in the eastern reaches of the Canyon, but at least one such site has been recorded near Deer Creek, 136 miles down the Colorado River from Lees Ferry. In all probability, these and later Pueblo Indians approached the great gorge from the heartland of their territory to the east.... The overwhelming majority of prehistoric ruins in Grand Canyon consists of small, surface masonry pueblos with associated storage rooms, mescal pits, and occasional kivas. Frequently these were built on open, relatively flat terraces. Many Indians did take advantage of the towering cliffs and built against them at the tops of steep talus slopes, but true cliff dwellings are not often encountered.

"现在仍然可以看到废墟上残留的砖石墙，勾勒出房间的轮廓。他们周围的地面通常散落着破碎的陶器和石制工具，如箭头、刮刀和磨石。储藏室和岩顶村落通常保存较好，有些原始的木制屋顶仍然完好无损。例如，在西奴莫峡谷的一个地方，房间的砖石墙有杨木支架，与较小的柱子、石板、最后是一层土形成直角相交，其它地方的普韦布洛部落也具有这样的典型建筑风格。储藏室被放置在受保护的壁龛或屋檐处，通常保存完好，但除了偶尔有一些玉米棒，里面的东西早就被啮齿类动物吃掉了。当年烘烤龙舌兰植物的根和嫩芽的梅斯卡莱罗坑，现在是一个圆形的洼地，有些直径达20到25英尺，周围都是些烧焦的小岩石。
"The ruins are now visible as low remnants of masonry walls that mark room outlines. The ground around them usually is littered with broken pottery and stone tools, such as arrow points, scrapers, and milling stones. Storage rooms and the talus-top pueblos are usually found in a better state of preservation, and in a few instances the original wooden roofs are still intact. At one site in Shinumo Canyon, for example, the masonry walls of a room are spanned by cottonwood timbers, crossed at right angles with smaller poles, slabs of rock, and finally a layer of earth, as is typical of Pueblo architecture elsewhere. The storerooms, placed in protected niches or overhangs, ordinarily are well preserved, but except for an occasional corncob, their contents have long since been consumed by rodents. Mescal pits, where the roots and tender young shoots of the Agave plant were roasted, are marked by large circular depressions, some with diameters of 20 to 25 feet, ringed with masses of small, charred rocks.

"今天，游客们只能从……边缘观看大峡谷……不知道为什么当年(印第安人)一开始就进入了……。毫无疑问，在南北两侧猎鹿是最佳的，但是其它的动物，比如山羊和兔子则在下方容易找到。边缘地带生长着大量的野生植物，但这些植物在生态上只能适应高原海拔(7000到8000英尺)。在峡谷下面，还可以采集到许多其它类主食:某些种类的仙人掌的美味果实，豆科植物的可食用豆，猫爪草和龙舌兰。此外，豆类、南瓜、玉米和棉花的成功种植有赖于相当长的无霜期和充足的水。在海拔3000英尺以下的峡谷具备这两个条件。虽然两侧都相对缺乏可靠的水源，但峡谷的深处有许多泉水，特别是在靠近北侧的峡谷边缘，有常年流动的溪水。虽然自普韦布洛人占领的鼎盛时期以来，毫无疑问有过一些气候变化，特别是降雨模式的变化，但值得注意的是，在今天还有溪流或泉水的一些峡谷边缘中，还有遗址；现在没有水的地方，史前遗址就没有了。
"Today, visitors viewing Grand Canyon only from the ... rim may wonder ... why [Indians] entered it in the first place.… [Food.] While deer-hunting undoubtedly was excellent on both north and south rims, such other game animals as mountain sheep and rabbits were to be found below the rims. Wild food plants grew in abundance on the rims, but only those ecologically adjusted to the high plateau elevations (7,000 to 8,000 feet). In the Canyon below, many other staples could be gathered: the tasty fruits of certain varieties of cactus, the edible beans of the mesquite, the catclaw, and the Agave. Furthermore, successful farming of beans, squash, corn, and cotton depends upon a rather long, frost-free growing season and sufficient water. Both were obtainable at Canyon elevations below 3,000 feet. While both rims are relatively devoid of dependable water sources, the recesses of the Canyon contain many springs and, particularly in the side canyons near the north rim, permanently flowing streams. While there undoubtedly have been some climatic changes in the several centuries since the Pueblo occupation was at its height, particularly changes in rainfall pattern, it is worthwhile to note that in some side canyons where there are permanent streams or springs today, there are ruins; where there is no water now, prehistoric sites are lacking.

从环境上讲，尽管有季节性，但是大峡谷为普韦布洛人的生存提供了优良的资源......在许多支流的峡谷中，特别是在大峡谷的东部，都有类似的普韦布洛砖石废墟与低坝相连。在其中一处遗址，有一道长长的石墙，显然是为了把山上的水引到农田里。有大量的证据表明，这些印第安人采取了侵蚀控制和其它保护措施。
Environmentally, then, the Canyon provided excellent resources to sustain Pueblo life, though in all probability occupation was in large part seasonal.… Throughout many tributary canyons, especially in the eastern portions of Grand Canyon, are similar Pueblo masonry ruins in association with low check dams. At one site there is a long stone wall that was apparently built to divert sheet drainage from the hills above to agricultural fields. There is abundant evidence that these Indians practiced erosional control and other conservation measures.

这是冰河时代历史书中的最后一部分:
And here’s one last bit from that Ice Age History book:

伊莱亚斯，第123页：
Elias, p. 123:

到公元1150年，不仅峡谷中的定居点被废弃了，南北侧的农业也失败告终了。在这些遗址的干旱环境中，唯一幸存下来的定居点是哈瓦苏河及其周边，这条河是该地区可耕地附近最稳定的水源之一。农业和人类定居一直延续到现在，但人们再也不会尝试在大峡谷的其它地区耕种了。
By 1150 A.D., not only had settlements in the canyon been abandoned, but agriculture on the north and south rims had also failed. The only settlement to survive the drought that doomed these sites was that in and around Havasu Creek, one of the most consistent sources of water near arable land in the region. Agriculture and human occupation have continued there to the present time, but never again would people try to farm other regions of the Grand Canyon.

全球变暖，对吧？
Global warming, huh ?

奥拉AURA

我要喝点东西了。
I want a drink.

● 获得书籍
● Get book