杰罗姆,亚利桑那州  
Jerome, Arizona  

奥拉AURA

如果科罗纳多寻找的是铜而不是黄金,比斯比和杰罗姆就会是幸运的发现了。铜矿吸引了矿业公司和他们需要的劳动力来到这两个丘陵地带。比斯比的人口最多时达到了两万五千,杰罗姆达到了一万五千,但是铜挖完以后,人也走了,现在比斯比的人口下降到了六千八百,杰罗姆只有四百了。当矿关闭以后,每个地方只有不到3%的居民还留在那里。直到人们意识到这些地方很不错,便宜的房子对嬉皮士、艺术家和退休人员很有吸引力,人口才不至于继续下降。
Had Coronado been looking for copper instead of gold, Bisbee and Jerome would have been lucky finds. Copper is what attracted mining companies and the laborers they needed to these two hilly spots. But from a high population mark of 25,000 in Bisbee and 15,000 in Jerome, once the copper ran out, so did the people, such that at present Bisbee the population is down to 6800, Jerome 400. Less than 3% of the residents stayed in each place when the mines closed. It was even less in both until the realization hit that these are pretty places where cheap digs can appeal to hippies, artists, and retirees.

吸引艺术家们的美景也吸引了游客来这两个地方。比斯比是个比较偏僻的地方,所以游客数量只有杰罗姆的三分之一,尽管杰罗姆人口只有比斯比人口的6%。杰罗姆的生死全靠旅游业,他们也成功地生存下来了,一方面是因为附近有高档的度假地,比如克拉克代尔和塞多纳,很多人从凤凰城过来短途旅游。杰罗姆最后的矿山在1953年关闭了,200人一直留在那里,他们中的一些人组建了杰罗姆历史协会,建了一座古雅的博物馆来吸引人们关注它的历史。每年去杰罗姆的游客超过100万,而比斯比只有30万。
Scenic beauty that attracted the activities of artists is what draws tourists to both these places. Bisbee is kind of off the beaten track, and so gets only about a third as many tourists as Jerome, even though Jerome’s population is only about 6 % of Bisbee’s. Jerome lives or dies by tourism, and has managed to survive partly because of being near to upscale cool getaways from Phoenix like Clarkdale and Sedona, and because when Jerome’s last mines closed in 1953, some of the 200 remaining die-hards formed the Jerome Historical Society to call attention to its history with a museum and its quaint appearance. Tourists to Jerome number over a million a year, versus Bisbee’s 300,000.

如果你在大峡谷,去杰罗姆的最快路径是沿着AZ64号公路向南,到40号州际公路向东,到达弗拉格斯塔夫。但如果你想去杰罗姆,而且又想慢悠悠地玩,你可以向东走64公路到89号公路,看看沿途印第安人售卖的物品,然后在160号公路向右转走到图巴市,去看看火星是什么样子的。结束以后,原路返回到89号州际公路,然后向南到40号州际公路,向西到弗拉格斯塔夫。如果你要往北去峡谷,看看我在这里的指示。
If you’re at the Grand Canyon, the fastest way to get to Jerome is to head south on AZ64 to Interstate 40 east to Flagstaff. But if you’re somebody aiming for Jerome, you are not the hurrying type. So you should instead take 64 east to US89, checking out what the Indians have for sale along the way, then hang a right on US160 to Tuba City to see what Mars looks like. Having done that, retrace your tire tracks to US89, and then head south to Interstate 40, west to Flagstaff. If you're heading north to the Canyon, see my directions here instead.

我知道对于图巴和弗拉格斯塔夫,西内有些话要说的,所以我只能说从17号州际公路的弗拉格斯塔夫向南走,然后再上AZ89A号公路。接下来便是一条陡峭、蜿蜒、风景优美的公路,一直往南就到塞多纳,不过在你到达那里之前,最好在滑石州立公园停一停,尤其是在天气炎热的时候。大多数人懒得去大峡谷底部,所以你不妨好好享受一下坐着漂流而下,让自己的身体与大自然同步,不试一下的话,你真的疯了。擦擦干以后,继续前行到塞多纳艺术户外咖啡馆等一下。欣赏了红色的岩石,参观了你喜欢的艺术长廊以后,在89A公路继续往南走,经过克拉克代尔,然后爬上陡峭的斜坡去杰罗姆,到时注意一下你左手边的房屋,住宿和餐馆,很快就会到杰罗姆的中心了,那里有画廊等。中心很小,所以在任何地方停车你都会处于中心位置。如果你想去看看以前的居民为了用铜线或类似的东西照亮夜晚而在地上挖出的洞,找个人问一下就知道了。
I know Sine has something to say about Tuba City and Flagstaff, so I’ll just say head south from Flagstaff on Interstate 17 and then on AZ89A when you come to it. That takes you to a steep winding scenic drive south to Sedona, but shortly before you get there you had better stop at Slide Rock State Park, especially if it’s a hot day. Most people don’t bother going to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, so you’re just crazy if you don’t at least have the fun of literally sitting down in the stream on slide rock and letting it carry your body till you’re in sync with nature. Dry off and proceed to Sedona where artsy outdoor cafes await. Having been charmed by the red rocks and all the gallery-going you require, proceed south again on 89A for a good ways, passing through Clarkdale and then on up the steep incline to Jerome, noting homes, lodging and eateries on your left, and very soon the heart of Jerome with its galleries etc. The heart is small, so stopping anywhere will put you in the center of things. If you must see the gouges in the earth that previous residents labored to create for the sake of lighting up the night with copper wire and such, ask someone to point.

如果你没有时间去接下来的南方之旅,而继续沿着AZ89A公路前行的话,接下来就是一段令人毛骨悚然的路,它通往普雷斯科特,一个悠闲的西部小镇,然后向北返回峡谷。或者,如果你喜欢建筑和其它我们聊过的东西,你也可以沿AZ89A公路返回,往东走AZ60公路,一直到17号州际公路,再接下来你要选择一下了:立刻向北约4英里去蒙特苏马城堡,看看印第安人是如何在悬崖上建一个公寓的,或者先往南约13英里到阿科桑蒂,我们地图上有的。
If you haven’t got time for the rest of my tour south, you could do worse than continue on AZ89A for a somewhat hair-raising ride to Prescott, a nice laid-back western town, and then head north back to the Canyon. Or, if you’re into architecture and other things we’re ranting about, you might prefer to back track on AZ89A east to AZ60 which puts you on I-17 with a choice to make: go north immediately about 4 miles to Montezuma Castle to see how the Indians built an apartment building into a cliff, or first go south about 13 miles to Arcosanti that's on our map.

● 杰罗姆的历史
● Jerome's history

● 概况
● Overview

● 杰罗姆州立历史公园简介,时间
● Jerome State Historic Park Intro, Hours

● 费用和地图
● Fees and map

● 方位
● Directions

● 十天天气预报
● 10 day weather forecast